Helen Anthony unveiled its collection for Spring Summer 2022.
It gives great satisfaction when a new designer shows on-schedule at a fashion week for the first time, and executes on their vision in a clear, methodical and cogent way. That is exactly what Helen Anthony did with their first scheduled show at London Fashion Week for the spring/summer 2022 season.
Tailoring was the core component around which the other parts (including racy nude chiffon and taffeta dresses), congregated. It was evident in the suiting for men (60s inspired with flared trousers, jackets loose to the body but not baggy, sometimes in two-tone colour-blocking or checkered or rather kitsch African-print lookalikes) and even in the womenswear where sharp jackets turned into sexy short dinner dresses.
In addition to the suit jackets, the rest of the outerwear was equally strong: a red double-breasted military inspired jacket, synched at the waist with a built-in belt, was particularly convincing. Similarly, the extra long coats with extended back and side slits that made them look almost like dresses when they moved, were equally successful.
Other softer elements less related to the clothes that made this show such a stellar performance, were things like the diverse model casting: never mind all different races and skin hues, but also different body shapes and ages (everything from cute children and tweens, to their grey-haired grandmas and pas). Seemingly Anthony can slice and dice a suit to fit anyone of any size. Lastly, the work ethic here is to be applauded: it is extraordinary that a young brand can produce such a large collection - over 115 looks and 50 models, with so many different elements to it. Yet it remained fully cohesive with a clear narrative.